This 11′ hollow wooden surfboard is one of my favourites. That’s out of the hundreds that I’ve made since 2007.
Riaan got in touch midway through 2021 to order the board. “No rush,” he said, but indicated that he would like it by Christmas.
I already had some beautiful pieces of Japanese Cedar for the bottom, but I was short of a decent piece for the top. I needed quality timber at nearly four metres in length and that’s not always easy to find. After a scrounge of the usual wood piles and having rejected several pieces, I found what I was looking for in October.
The famous author Jack London, after seeing Hawaiians surf in the 1800s, was so enthralled that he wrote of seeing them riding on the back of waves like kings. This 11′ hollow wooden surfboard reminds me of that quote – it is meant for riding on the back of waves like kings (and queens).
It’s length and thickness will give the paddler unprecedented paddle speed, enabling it to glide in to waves on the back of swells. With a mid-point back from centre and narrower nose, it is designed to turn off the back. The long rail line makes trimming a dream as the surfboard harnesses the ocean’s energy.
Something that was front of mind in making this wooden surfboard was the idea that it is just physically impossible for me to make very many boards like this. Even if I carry on making wooden surfboards for the next 15 years, I just won’t get to make very many grand pieces like this. It really was an honour to work with the wood and frame it within the beautiful shape of a surfboard.